WUDANGSHAN, A SACRED DAOIST MOUNTAIN
Michael Saso WordPress blogsite , Nov. 2009
It was a great honor and privilege to climb Mount Wudang Shan last week, one of China’s most sacred mountains, for the Lunar 9th month 9th Day festival (Oct. 24-25 this year). 9/9 is the birthday of “Bei Di,” 北帝 the North Pole spirit, who resided on the mountain top.
Little did I realize that 10,000+ people would choose to visit on the same day I did. Guests from Hong Kong, Taiwan, and southeast Asia joined pilgrims from local villages, and from all over China, to climb Wudang Shan’s “golden peak” summit, and celebrate Bei Di (also called “Xuan Tian Shang Di” 玄天上帝)’s birthday.
Xuan Tian Shang Di lives in the Pole Star in the Northern heavens, where he protects China’s emperors, and is patron of martial arts. He is also enshrined above the North Gate of Beijing’s “Forbidden City” Imperial palace. Emperors of the Ming dynasty (1368-1644) considered Xuan Tian Shang Di to be their own very special patron. The beautiful temple complexes atop Wudang Shan were commissioned by the second Ming emperor, Yong Le, who ordered 300,000 people to go there between 1420-1428, and build what he hoped would be China’s most spectacular sacred temple area, just as he ordered Beijing to be built as the world’s most spectacular imperial palace.
The Manchu emperors of the Qing dynasty (1644-1912) were not as enthusiastic about maintaining Daoist mountain top temples. The KMT government was even less concerned, allowing the summit to be neglected, without government funding or notice. Zhou Enlai, one of China’s wisest modern prime ministers, forbade the Red Guard to destroy any of the buildings and statues on the summit, as he did for other cultural heritages of China as well. A handful of ancient Daoists survived the Cultural Revolution, keeping the traditions of inner cultivation, and spiritual presence, alive and well on the mountaintop.
Governmental neglect was a blessing in disguise for the Daoist monks and nuns, who stayed in the shrines, temples, and caves, that bless the 72 peaks of the Wudang Mountain complex. After 1980, Wudang Shan’s ancient customs were revived. The government soon noticed that thousands of pilgrims came each year to the mountain to “burn incense,” offer “spirit-paper money,” (a symbol of offering one’s own good deeds) at the many shrines atop Wudang Shan. Buses were provided to carry pilgrims from the foot of the mountain to hilltop lodgings, for a nominal fee. For those who cannot manage the grueling 3 hour uphill walk, a cable car provides a 40 minute ride from Zhongguan bus stop to the summit.
The monks and nuns of Wudang Shan (Mt. Wudang) belong to the Dragon Gate (Longmen) branch of Quanzhen monastic Daoism (龙门全真), which is also popular in Hong Kong’s “Green Pine Monastery” (Qing Song Guan青松观) and many temples throughout China. People come from all over China and the overseas diaspora each year to pay respects to Bei Di, Patron Spirit the Big Dipper as well as the North Pole star, at his mountaintop temple.
Climbing the summit is a very moving experience. Children, parents, grandparents, rich and poor alike, line up from early morning until late at night, waiting their turn to climb up the 1000 steps to the summit, and wish “happy birthday” to Bei Di. The Big Dipper, Bei Di reminds us, points to the North Pole Star 24 hours a day, as it circles through the heavens. Christian, Islamic, Judaic, Buddhist, and Daoist visitors are reminded to be always aware of “Transcendent” Dao, (God, Allah) within us, symbolized in art, for all who visit the shrine.
Michael Saso Wudang Shan, Nov. 21-31, 2009[SinglePic not found]
Sino-asian.org students, fall study trip to north Tibet, Ta-er-si monastery, in Tibetan Amdo Kumbun monastery, the birth place of Zongkapa, founder of the Gelugpa Yellow Hat or Dalai Lama school
The Sino-Asian Institute of America also makes annual pilgrimages to Kyoto, to temples, museums, and shrines, when cherry blossoms (spring), and red maple leaves (autumn) highlight Japan’s Buddhist and Shinto inspired family culture.
To facilitate visits to these places, contact:
michael_saso@yahoo.com
The Sino-Asian Institute of America has, since 1999, encouraged special pilgrimage opportunities to the sacred places of Tibet, from May through September. Five pilgrimage options are available, through SAIA’s contacts in Asia. Currently no pilgrimages are scheduled, but we hope to resume in 2009.
As a result of these trips, and the generosity of those who came on pilgrimage, the Sino-Asian Institute of America has built 5 schools in Tibet, and helped build one school for girls in Afganistan.

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